What's new Active Topics New posts Latest activity. Members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Filters Search. New posts. Search forums. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
How long does ICH Live out of water? Thread starter Barday Start date Nov 3, Barday Fishaholic. Hi all, I was reading a couple of posts about ICH and found out that you can contaminate a tank by using the same equipment from a tank which has ich. I really don't want to buy a new set of kit for the second tank, so I was wondering how long ICH lives out of water. I usually have a net for each of my tanks or set up a bucket with ick guard in it.
Ick will die when its in contact with the air but only if the net dries out. SnowyzMom Fishaholic. Thankfully I have not had this problem yet. Might I ask, could one wash out all the equipment with something like Lysol cleaner, which is soooo germicidal and then rinse everything for about 3 weeks to get rid of the Lysol?
Or would that just never work? Just wondering. Not planning on it. Though the fish are not really bothered, other than visiting the cleaner shrimp, I worry about adding new fish and the stress of acclimation. I was going to remove all of the fish from the tank and treat them by hypo-salinity for a month. How long must I keep fish out of the infested system to ensure that the ich is gone? Without a host, can it go into a dormant stage? Thanks in advance.
With the temps we keep our reefs at, it will last But to be safe and make sure that every tomont has ruptured and the resulting theronts have had time to die, we go conservative and say at least a month, if not 6 weeks. Reason being, is that there are those "dormant" or scant reports of it taking longer. Hyposalinity is very likely to not kill it off completely If you are really serious about a crypt free system, if would be best to not do hypo and coper the fish in a QT tank.
Just my opinion. I'm sure there are others Best of luck. Current Tank Info: 60 gallon reef and reef. Thanks Patrick12, Just took every single rock out of my to find a goby that didn't want to leave his home. The fish are now all alone and and I started to drop the Salinity. Six weeks of Hypo won't eradicate the crypto? I do not plan on going through this again anytime soon. If i medicate, Cu or does Quinine have a place; anyone?
Copper is the gold standard, but there are "reports" of resistant strains that seem to not be bothered by copper. Surely the outliers there. I would go with Cu. Make sure it is ionic, not chealated or aminized and keep it at 0. That should do it. The key is to not let the Cu level drop. Ionic copper is not real stable but that is part of what makes it so reactive and deadly to the theronts you are going after. Good luck. It takes weeks for Ich to cycle through and die off.
IMO you really don't need to use copper on every fish in QT. I just went through 7 weeks of hypo with my fish and left the display fallow fo that time. I actually had a small break out at 4 weeks in hypo. The fish are back in the display and everything went fine If you had a breakout in the hypo after 4 weeks of it, then it is likely that it did not erradicate them, but rather just allowed a balance between the parasite and your fishes' immunity.
Be on the lookout for another outbreak if the tank gets stressed again. This has been my experience in the past as well and that is why I advocate for the copper, because it will definitely kill them off.
If I have an unintentional temp swing or remodeling job in the tank, I do not see any more outbreaks. You can get the crypt gone for good, but you will likely need to use copper. Oh, and you certainly do need to treat every fish They all need the treatment to avoid the parasite and avoid the isolated fish from a worse infestation when introduced back to the display. Thanks for the input. The fish are now in 17 ppt and dropping with a UV to prevent an outbreak in the cramped tank while decreasing the salinity.
I've push the temp to I also picked up some Cupramine - you would go with old Copper sulfate? Because it is so hard to maintain the higher stable alkalinity, that you are used to in your display hopefully true I woudl not recommend doing both and would really recommend the copper over the hypo.
Even if you wait til the ich is gone in the tank, you'd still have to cycle it as the bioload of the shrimp won't be enough to keep a good bacteria colony going. After waiting about a week, I would put the betta in the tank and do a fish-in cycle using Tetra SafeStart Plus.
Maybe I could just keep adding small amounts of pure ammonia to keep the cycling going. I already got a reading of nitrites yesterday.
I really love my betta, I don't want to take any risks. You won't want to add pure ammonia when you have shrimp in the tank. That will kill them for sure. When I was doing it with the tetras the ammonia stayed between 0. So I wait a week for the ich to die and then put him in? That's what I would do. I'm cycling 3 betta tanks impulse buys using prime and stability right now and the fish are doing great.
Thank you!! Since I'm practically going to start from the beginning To make sure I get rid of all the ich I love this betta guy so much I probably have said that already. I don't know much about Shrimp.
Would you put them back in with the betta after cleaning? I was treating one of my bettas for ich from neon tetras and he was fine at the 86 temp. Now that I'm lowering it back to 80 slowly, he hangs by the heater! If you clean everything I would do it in super hot water, like as hot as you can stand. But I'm not knowledgeable about shrimp. At all. But you already have them sooo I think that's what I would do but let's ask CindiL.
She's like the betta expert. Rosa Martinez, please listen to the advice that el gave you. In your situation, it may be the best way for you to cycle your tank, and it will be so much easier than the constant water changes, and testing. Thank you so much for your advice.
Last night I emptied the tank. I rinsed the sand very well and filled the tank up with fresh water I was having an algae problem from too much light. I didn't touch the filter media though. I left the temperature at 87 degrees and put the shrimp back in. I added prime and Seachem stability. I'm gonna wait 2 weeks for the ich to be completely gone and then I'll put Jery in and test water parameters daily.
Just to be clear If you washed everything well, you are probably good. Don't know about the shrimp and ich. If you use the stability, you need an ammonia source, and that is Jery. Otherwise it's not going to really do you any good.
I do know the shrimp don't have enough bioload to cycle the tank for the betta. In two weeks you'll be in the same place you are now. I don't think you need to even wait a week for the ich to be gone as it needs a host to live and I don't believe shrimp are carriers. I would save the Stability for when you put the betta in. It looks like ich will die in 48 hours without a host and a temperature of 80 degrees.
I'll give it 4 days at 87, then slowly bring the temperature down and put Jery the king of the castle in there. I'm also buying a 5 gallon quarantine tank, I learnt that lesson the hard way. Thank you all for your great advice and support! Sarcasm Included. At 87 degrees the ICH will be dead in less than a week, so your plan will work just fine Rosa. We all have a bumps when we started out. For some of us that was more years than we care to admit to. I wanted to follow up on this It's been 4 days since I cleaned the whole tank minus the filter.
I kept it at 87 degrees and I added a few drops of pure ammonia every other day to keep the levels between 0.
0コメント